Skip to main content

Mast step and rudder linkage rod both in

Trying to be as efficient as I can so that I can get the boat done by two weeks from tomorrow morning so that I can have the boat seaworthy for the 16 November clinic.  It's a "Learn to sail your T37 clinic" for new T37 people. It would be a perfect maiden voyage!

Today I worked on getting the rudder control arm installed and the rudder linkage arm put in. I actually had the servos taped in as well and was working on the placement of the battery pack and switch and such when I remembered that I hadn't yet installed the mast step. When the servos were in I couldn't get to the mast step on the bottom of the hull, so out they came. Will have to get to the hobby store this weekend to buy some more servo tape I guess.

The mast step is just a carbon fiber tube sealed at one end (see an earlier post I did on sealing the end of the mast step) and then placed through the hole in the deck. You then put the mast in and align it so that it's barely raked backwards about a degree, and so that it's perpendicular to the hull laterally.

The instructions say to make a pile of thickened epoxy at the bottom of the mast step and to sink the mast step into that pile. That sounds too messy to me so I made a small wooden frame to enclose the epoxy. It's a bit cleaner but it was still a challenge to get the thickened epoxy into the frame while under the deck and with the mast step in the middle of it. It's better than a pile of epoxy but if I were to do it again I would add the mast step frame to the things I would do before gluing on the deck. In that case I would have to have made it a larger frame so that I would leave room for the step once the deck was on. By that I mean that because I would be estimating where the step will go in the future, I would need to make the frame/box thing larger so that I don't accidentally glue the frame down where the step needs to go.

I tried to clean up some of the epoxy I put in, but I had to use long sticks to put the epoxy into the step frame and it seemed to go everywhere. I cleaned some of it up but there's still some left. Still... better than a pile of epoxy!

Here are some picture of the mast lined up with some squares. The instructions say to remove the mast, but I can't see doing that without moving the mast step out of alignment. I'll just be super careful not to bump it until it's cured enough to remove the mast.


If you look carefully you'll see that there is clearly an aft rake in the mast. Not sure if it's one degree or not, but it's raked nonetheless.




Tomorrow I'm off to West Marine to buy some varnish. I'll epoxy in the deck screw-eyes and then when dry I'll start with the varnish. Probably three to five coats will be enough. That will take most of this next week.

In between coats I'll start to work on the rigging. Two weeks to go... fingers crossed that I'll make it!


Steady as she goes! 

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

T37 RC Sailboat for Sale (and SAIL)!

Sold! Hopefully you racers in the Port Ludlow area will be seeing T37 2073 around at a few of your regattas soon. I wish her luck! Time to make room for my other hobbies, so while I hate to do it I must sell my original Tippecanoe T37 Racing RC Sailboat! Asking price: $875 or Best Offer .   A new T37 racing kit from Tippecanoe Boats is currently listed at $386, and a finished boat built by Tippecanoe will cost you $1425 ($1,560 plus tax) NOT including the racing upgrades. This boat is as high quality as a factory built boat but with the racing upgrades and with custom refinements. It weighs just over 4.5 lbs and has a custom fir & mahogany deck as well as many other custom features. Looks great and sails great. A completed boat by Tippecanoe will have a stock deck, stock rudder design, and will most likely show wood grain. This boat has a very expensive epoxy wood filler on the hull and is painted in durable epoxy paints. It has been raced and has had a few minor re...

Bought my T37 and Built a Custom Deck!

Hi! I purchased a Tippecanoe T37 RC Sailboat kit with the racing upgrade in September, 2013. In trying to research the best techniques for building a T37 online I came across some other people's building projects and a few chat sites. They were helpful but we can always use more ideas so I thought I'd start my own T37 build blog and see how it goes.  The instructions that come with kit are quite comprehensive, and there is even a webpage run by Tippecanoe that shows some of the assembly steps, so my focus will be on: 1.) Techniques that I found to be helpful, and 2.) Those times when I didn't follow the instructions and did things my own way.  STEP 1:  Buy a T37 kit Go to the Tippecanoe website and see what they have. I saw their display at the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival in September and was captivated. They have some smaller toy sailboats. Then they also have their more serious kits starting with the T27. They also have boats larger than the T37... T5...

New parts and finally a boom vang!

Got my order from Long Beach RC today! It included some line, some wire for the backstay and shrouds, a wind indicator, some bowsies, and two 35mm adjustable screws. One of the screws I'll use for the backstay, the other for the boom vang. But the really exciting news for today is that I figured out a boom vang idea that I really think will work! And, it still allows for a wide range of adjustment in two places. Bit of a mish-mash but overall it looks good and should work fine. Will need to really test it to dial it in though, but for now I'm pretty excited about it! So here's the idea. I used one of the new 35mm adjustable screws as the main arm of the boom vang. Turns out that it was actually just about the perfect length too. I had to find a way to fashion an arm that would keep the gooseneck separated from the bottom of the vang, so I used some brass wire and some brass tubing. The pictures tell it better... Boom vang without any tension on it. The boom is...